Glimpses of the Terra Cotta Soldiers

Even though we love Europe - here's a travel secret I hold. My ultimate dream destination is not even in Europe, it is China. I don't know why I hold tight to the Asian adventure, but I hope one day Kirk and I will make it there.

Actually I think I might know why China... When I was young my Meme and Apa traveled to China together. It made the travel seem real, attainable, and fabulous. I loved seeing photos of them at the Great Wall. I remember Meme teaching me about Buddhism and seeing images of them standing in front of the large statues. You could tell they were so happy to be there together. They brought back these 2 small elephants made of shiny cut glass. I was fascinated with the elephant figures. Maybe that is when my China thoughts began.

When we do go to China (which probably won't be til we are grandparents ourselves!) one of my must-see stops is to see the Terra Cotta Soldies of Xi'an. The army of 3,000 intricate sculptures was formed as a type of burial art to help emperor rule in his afterlife. This is what the XI'an site looks like over in China (the 3 photos below are from China from the internet, the rest are mine from Belgium):

Each figure is like a snowflake. Each one is different from the next and a master work of art. Astounding.

Imagine my surprise when I learned that several of these warrior soldiers were traveling through Belgium! I was excited to go see what I could see. Karen and Brady agreed to come with us. So the 4 of us headed 90 minutes down the road to Maaseik, Belgium. I really wish I knew why this tiny rural town was the chosen site for the exhibit. It was a tiny town square in the middle of acres of farmland.

We rolled up with our strollers and this is what we saw:

The narrow street in the middle of nowhere was overflowing with senior citizens waiting to get in! As Karen noted, we brought down the median age of the group by 50 years. We knitted ourselves and our strollers through the masses and made it in to see the soldiers. We got plenty of, "Are you crazy? What are you doing here with toddlers?!?" looks, but we persevered and got our glimpses. There were 14 warriors and herds of animals.

We did have to speed through the exhibit because it was clear as we were packed in like sardines that lingering with loud and active children would not work out. That was ok though, I was still tickled to see the warriors. It was more about what those figures represented than the actual sight. Connor and Brady were sports. They enjoyed the animals and Brady even learned how to "kneel" like a warrior! So adorable.

After we scooted out with our terra cotta toy replicas in hand, we took the kids to a cafe for lunch. We examined the menu before we went in to make sure it was "kid suitable" and tried to translate the Dutch. We thought it was a pizza place (circular items illustrated sure looked like pizza pies), but come to find out when we sat down it was actually a pancake house. Clearly our Dutch needs some help! But we had a "pizza pancake" and that fit the bill.

Even if it made for a long trip for only 20 minutes of viewing, it was a memorable day for me. And I hope also memorable for the kids. Maybe all this carting around will help make learning come even more alive. At least until we make it to China for real one day!

Cook & Book

Earlier this week Connor and I went with Julia to one of the coolest retail places I have ever been called "Cook & Book."
It is a compilation of bookstores within a maze like building made up of themed rooms. Each of the 9 rooms/stores at Cook & Book is outfitted with an individual restaurant complimenting each book genre. The themes include: travel, modern, comics, gardening, cooking, written in English (!), etc. They used the lighting, menus, surrounding book selection and overall ambiance of each room to compliment the theme. Like look at this one with the books literally hanging from the ceiling.

Or these - you can see the restaurants nestled within the walls of books. The black and white shot was of the travel room. The restaurant spilled into the silver on the left where you can literally crawl in and eat at the table right inside. It was a feast for our eyes!







Connor enjoyed the outing too. It was hard for me to focus with her hopping around in excitement over all the books, but that was part of the fun. I hope to go back solo sometime to more fully soak it all in and to try the food.

Forming Cathedrals

Last night Karen and I were talking to a lady who adamantly opposed the fact that our children are over 1 and not in Belgian creche (daycare). She couldn't fathom why we wouldn't take advantage of the opportunity to put them there to learn and become multilingual. It is so culturally-expected here that moms send young children to creche nearly full time. I never in my wildest dreams fathomed coming here with Connor and being made to feel guilty over NOT taking her to daycare!

As ridiculous as I know this sounds the conversation did get us talking and thinking. We stand proud of our decision to absorb this time with our toddlers. I mean what a gift! Both of us will have to return to work in the States in a matter of months, so why not use every moment for laughing and snuggling our little ones while we can? Why not engage in activities together and come up with our own curriculum to teach and discover? Why not take them to see the wonders of the world and learn out "in the field" where lessons are alive and the environment is different and we can instill values consistently. I am definitely a firm believer in kids playing and socializing together, but I don't want to send Connor to an overcrowded daycare here - nor is that how we want to prioritize our expenses.

I am not saying there aren't times when I wouldn't appreciate having a few hours to myself. Or there aren't times when I doubt my ability to be engaged and creative with Connor all day everyday. And we have been known to put videos on for Connor from time to time just so Mommy can get a break. But I mean at the end of the day, isn't the time together worth more than having a toddler who can speak Dutch, French, and English at the same time? Not forever one-on-one, but for this fleeting precious time period?

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A friend had this story posted on her blog and it was too apropos not to include it here. Sums up what life is like sometimes and rings another note of familiarity given the many, many breathtaking European cathedrals around us. I dislike email forwards, but this one is special. I certainly don't feel "invisible" yet or half of these trials to the extent the author describes, but the stay-at-home mom life is still a radical change for me. Yet it is one I am enjoying; I treasure the foundation building time with Connor. And it makes me love and miss my mom and Carol so much - thankful for the sacrifices they made for us.

Author not given:
"I’m Invisible. It all began to make sense, the blank stares, the lack of response, the way one of the kids will walk into the room while I’m on the phone and ask to be taken to the store. Inside I’m thinking, “Can’t you see I’m on the phone?” Obviously not; no one can see if I’m on the phone, or cooking, or sweeping the floor, or even standing on my head in the corner, because no one can see me at all. I’m invisible. The invisible Mom. Some days I am only a pair of hands, nothing more: Can you fix this? Can you tie this? Can you open this? Some days I’m not a pair of hands; I’m not even a human being. I’m a clock to ask, “What time is it?” I’m a satellite guide to answer, “What number is the Disney Channel?” I’m a car to order, “Right around 5:30, please.” I was certain that these were the hands that once held books and the eyes that studied history and the mind that graduated summa cum laude -but now they had disappeared into the peanut butter, never to be seen again. She’s going, she’s going, and she’s gone!
One night, a group of us were having dinner, celebrating the return of a friend from England. Janice had just gotten back from a fabulous trip, and she was going on and on about the hotel she stayed in. I was sitting there, looking around at the others all put together so well. It was hard not to compare and feel sorry for myself as I looked down at my out-of-style dress; it was the only thing I could find that was clean. My unwashed hair was pulled up in a hair clip and I was afraid I could actually smell peanut butter in it. I was feeling pretty pathetic, when Janice turned to me with a beautifully wrapped package, and said,“I brought you this.” It was a book on the great cathedrals of Europe. I wasn’t exactly sure why she’d given it to me, until I read her inscription: “To Charlotte, with admiration for the greatness of what you are building when no one sees.” In the days ahead I would read - no, devour - the book. And I would discover what would become for me, life-changing truths after which I could pattern my work.

No one can say who built the great cathedrals - we have no record of their names. These builders gave their whole lives for a work they would never see finished. They made great sacrifices and expected no credit. The passion of their building was fueled by their faith that the eyes of God saw everything. A legendary story in the book told of a rich man who came to visit the cathedral while it was being built, and he saw a workman carving a tiny bird on the inside of a beam. He was puzzled and asked the man, “Why are you spending so much time carving that bird into a beam that will be covered by the roof? No one will ever see it.” And the workman replied, “Because God sees.” I closed the book, feeling the missing piece fall into place. It was almost as if I heard God whispering to me, “I see you, Charlotte. I see the sacrifices you make every day, even when no one around you does. No act of kindness you’ve done, no sequin you’ve sewn on, no cupcake you’ve baked, is too small for me to notice and smile over. You are building a great cathedral, but you can’t see right now what it will become.” At times, my invisibility feels like an affliction. But it is not a disease that is erasing my life. It is the cure for the disease of my own self-centeredness. It is the antidote to my strong, stubborn pride. I keep the right perspective when I see myself as a great builder. As one of the people who show up at a job that they will never see finished, to work on something that their name will never be on. The writer of the book went so far as to say that no cathedrals could ever be built in our lifetime because there are so few people willing to sacrifice to that degree. When I really think about it, I don’t want my son to tell the friend he’s bringing home from college for Thanksgiving, “My mom gets up at 4 in the morning and bakes homemade pies, and then she hand bastes a turkey for three hours and presses all the linens for the table.” That would mean I’d built a shrine or a monument to myself. I just want him to want to come home. And then, if there is anything more to say to his friend, to add, “You’re gonna love it there.”

As mothers, we are building great cathedrals. We cannot be seen if we’re doing it right. And one day, it is very possible that the world will marvel, not only at what we have built, but at the beauty that has been added to the world by the sacrifices of invisible women. "

BERLIN

Over the weekend we flew to Berlin, Germany - again another Ryan Air special deal. It was a combined trip - tourist sightseeing as well as spending time with one of my best friends from high school, Michael Anderson. I had not seen Michael since college - so a decade later it was terrific to connect and see him nestled into his European life in Berlin. Michael is an elementary school teacher now. He rotates amongst schools and teaches children English. How cool! He is in process of applying for a PhD program in Dublin for English literature. His heart definitely belongs on this side of the Atlantic.
We were very lucky that Michael picked us up from the airport and spent the entire weekend with us - helping us navigate all over his beloved Berlin. He says that he even got to see new things with us because how often do you really take advantage of being a tourist in your own home town? It was fantastic having a personal tour guide to lead us all over.

Since returning to Brussels so many people have asked me, "How was Berlin?!?!" It is funny because I sometimes have trouble answering this question even though we definitely had a full and fun time. Berlin is unique city and difficult to describe. It is an unusual mix of tremendously rapid growth since the fall of the Berlin Wall, yet there is always an air of gloom and depressed history remembering the Holocaust and WWII and the division of Communism. The city just oozes history and remembrance. I think it is essential to try to take in this history in pieces. It is always a stark contrast to learn about a time so gruesome and troubling on a whirlwind sightseeing tour. As an example we were struck by the small bronzed plaques built into the streets marking the addresses of murdered Holocaust victims. They dot the avenues around town and serve as regular reminders of how real and horrible the Jewish history is. Can you imagine being plucked from life to endure such terror? It eats your heart; you can't be in Berlin without thinking critically and emotionally about what happened there relatively recently.

We did take time to visit the brand new Jewish museum. The site was billed as a place to not only remember the Holocaust, but as a celebration of Jewish customs and tradition. Even though we basically had to speed walk through the exhibits because Connor was tired and wiggly, I really enjoyed the experience. We did not make it to this part of museum, but I found these photos of a particularly moving and creative exhibit. It is called "Memory Void" and basically visitors walk over a hallway of these metal faces. The "groaning" and "creeking" as one walks over metal rubbing together is supposed to evoke feelings of uncertainty and remembrance. What a thoughtful way to make a point. I highly recommend this brand new museum - maybe just not with a busy toddler in tow. Although they did have kid's corners that were a hit and a help.


We also spent time checking out all of the Berlin Wall memorial and sites. I was 11 years old when the Berlin Wall collapsed in 1989. I remember the TV images pretty vividly and trying to get my young mind about what the Wall represented. I didn't understand the symbolism and history then. I still think it is pretty complicated and unbelievable to think of a city and country so concretely divided. But being in the city certainly primed my curiosity to keep learning more. Even though the Berlin Wall is gone, there is still a stark difference between East and West Berlin. It will take decades for the dividing line to blur and progress to normalize the East. Seeing the large ruins of the Berlin Wall dot the city and the Wall Memorial and bike path was eerie yet intriguing.

Michael showed us this Reconciliation Church spot where the Wall used to run. There was an old church here, but as it was in the way of the Wall and the concepts of Communism the church was demolished. Poof, gone! When the Wall came down this spot of reconciliation was built. I found it calming and particularly touching.

We did take in some tourist sights not so heavy with evocative history. We rented bikes Saturday afternoon and rode all over Berlin, hopping from East to West Berlin and noting the contrasts as well as the construction. The skyline of Berlin is literally filled with cranes. A tangible sign of rebuilding and progress. Kirk and I actually stopped in Berlin for a day 6 years ago during a 3 week backpacking European whirlwind. I remember then we set as a goal to return one day because it was clear the city was changing and growing at lightning speed. Indeed it has. There were a handful of new memorials and modern skyscrapers everywhere that were not there during our last visit. These included the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. A strange plaza full of concrete blocks meant to symbolize whatever you deem them to represent.










We also saw the "Artists' Squat" - a bombed out shell of a building that is a home and studio for many struggling artists. You can walk through the dusty courtyard or even through the floors of the building to see the alternative art on display. It was a strange combination of intriguing and disturbing to think of the struggling artists living in such dismal yet such inspiring conditions.














We rode past the Reichstag Parliament building. We did go to the top of the glass dome last visit to Berlin. I had hoped to return - this time to see it at night. But we ran out of time so we only saw it from afar this time!












Unfortunately just as we were farthest away from the bike shop my bike stopped mid-pedal. The rim and the tire had totally separated. We were stuck! Michael was kind enough to give me his bike to return to the shop while he wheeled my ailing bike back via the metro. Ugh. Thank you Michael!

I did get to enjoy lots of German food in Berlin. I never had been a very big fan of sausage and sauerkraut but Michael took us to a quaint pub place and I had the best sauerkraut ever. I am a convert. Connor didn't buy into the German food kick, but she did really like the ZEBRA painting at the cafe. I also ended up trying GREEN BEER at a restaurant in Potsdamer Platz. Supposedly it is a Berlin specialty, so why not?
On Sunday we traveled 30 minutes by train to Potsdam, Germany - a holiday retreat of Frederick the Great. In Potsdam, there are acres upon acres of grounds peppered with palaces and forests. It made for the most delightful day walking all over and letting Connor run free. Our Rick Steve's guide book really did not recommend Potsdam, but I am so happy we listened to our instincts and went out there anyway. I loved the contrast from the big city and the palaces were honestly some of the most enchanting. If you go, take the time to walk end to end from the New Palace to Sanssouci Palace. The 2 km jaunt will make you feel in touch with nature as well as in awe of the extravagance.
As we prepared to leave Berlin, we did go see the Brandenburg Gate one last time. When Kirk and I were here way back when we snapped a photo of us in front of this Berlin monument - it is one of my favorites from the trip. This time we took a duplicate photo, but this time in the glow of night and with our nearly 2 year old daughter! Wow, how time changes things! Both for us and in the growth of our family. And also for the marvelous city of Berlin and all the change and progress happening all over. Click here for photos of Berlin (full album)

Our GREEN Hotel in Berlin

While in Berlin we stayed at the Artotel Berlin City Center West. It was our best Priceline deal at $75 per night - including taxes. Not necessarily the cheapest we have ever scored in our bidding, but definitely the classiest for the buck. The bold colors and Andy Warhol theming were perfect for the bright, "becoming-modern" city of Berlin.

Most of you know, but the way Priceline.com works is that you place a bid for accommodation, specifying your preferred location and the number of stars you want in a hotel (but you can't choose a specific hotel). Within minutes your bid is either accepted or denied by reply email. But the "winning" hotel is the luck of the draw. So it is always a little bit of a roulette as to what you end up with. The Artotal was a good match for us. The only drawback was that it was a 20 minute walk from the train station...so we definitely got our exercise this weekend.

Imagine our surprise when we walked in and saw our GREEEEEN room! It was happy and a fun surprise. Even if it was overwhelming with all the green!
Connor's favorite part was definitely the purple chairs in our room. They were formed perfectly for her to climb on and shaped right around her little body. She used the purple chairs for eating and especially for reading books. And she definitely knew the word "purple" by the end of our stay!

Weather Flip Flop

While the American East coast is getting pounded with snow and all of you Southerners are building snowmen and catching snowflakes on your tongues, this is what we are seeing out our apartment windows today.
How strange?!?! In Belgium!!! Land of clouds and grey skies. Wish we had had more time to enjoy these blue skies, but we have been busy unpacking and grocery shopping and normal Monday errands when back from travels. (Laundry is still everywhere, but I have to ease myself into that chore). We spent the past weekend in Berlin, Germany. It was a great trip - but more on that in a later post.

Because our flight didn't land until this morning and we were off schedule, routines and sleep times were a little up in the air. Connor had a hard time napping this afternoon with all the excitement of greeting all her toys left behind. So we were a little loosy-goosy here. Around 4:30 PM I got up the motivation to head to the grocery store. But since Connor was still in her PJs post-nap-attempts and pre-an-early-bedtime, I looked at her and just lacked the initiative to change her back into real clothes. So I plopped her in the stroller and off we went to the grocery store (note the bags) with Connor in her PJs. Since there really is no chance to see anyone I know, I thought - why not?But be careful if you keep a sleepy toddler in a stroller in her PJs 2 hours before bedtime........because this is what Connor looked like 5 minutes into our grocery shop! Oh well. We will try again tomorrow for a more consistent schedule.

After-Nap Heads

I have a new weakness. Well, that's not true. I have always found this endearing. But it is especially enduring when the subject is your child.

Don't you just love how sometimes when children wake up from really good naps their heads are inexlipably sweaty? Is it from deep dreams? Or a particularly rambunctious slumber? Whatever the reason it makes me want to cuddle Connor that much more when it happens. At least until her hair dries!

Gymboree Bubbles - Another shout out!

These bubbles just are too good to be true. I mentioned the Gymboree bubbles in a previous post, but they are so awesome that they need a blog entry all of their own. I mean these suckers just will not pop! These were still on the floor hours after being blown. What do you think they put in them to make them hold together? I want that secret bubble recipe! They even stayed on Connor's head and hair. Those were especially fun to pop together.

Hugs and Kisses from Connor

My endearing daughter has a new habit to melt my heart. She is a champ in giving "tight hugs" and smackdown smooches these days. The other night we were putting Connor to bed and after prayers the routine includes big hugs and kisses for mom and dad. It is one of the very best parts of the day!

Well on this night she must have been brimming with love because Connor decided she was going to really lay one on me. After a bear hug Connor put both of her hands on my face and pulled me close. She held me close kissing me on the lips and wouldn't let go! The kiss must have lasted 30 seconds. It was to the point that I couldn't help but to look over at Kirk and burst into laughter. Which of course made Connor laugh too.

The other bedtime routine with kisses is this: Connor gets in her crib and then we give her consecutive kisses through the slats of her crib. We follow her as she scoots right down the crib. Slat by slat and kiss by kiss!

Bedtime is wonderful. I will have to remember these hugs and kisses when Connor is a teenager and moms and kisses are NOT cool.