Showing posts with label Belgium daytrip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Belgium daytrip. Show all posts

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Glimpses of the Terra Cotta Soldiers

Even though we love Europe - here's a travel secret I hold. My ultimate dream destination is not even in Europe, it is China. I don't know why I hold tight to the Asian adventure, but I hope one day Kirk and I will make it there.

Actually I think I might know why China... When I was young my Meme and Apa traveled to China together. It made the travel seem real, attainable, and fabulous. I loved seeing photos of them at the Great Wall. I remember Meme teaching me about Buddhism and seeing images of them standing in front of the large statues. You could tell they were so happy to be there together. They brought back these 2 small elephants made of shiny cut glass. I was fascinated with the elephant figures. Maybe that is when my China thoughts began.

When we do go to China (which probably won't be til we are grandparents ourselves!) one of my must-see stops is to see the Terra Cotta Soldies of Xi'an. The army of 3,000 intricate sculptures was formed as a type of burial art to help emperor rule in his afterlife. This is what the XI'an site looks like over in China (the 3 photos below are from China from the internet, the rest are mine from Belgium):

Each figure is like a snowflake. Each one is different from the next and a master work of art. Astounding.

Imagine my surprise when I learned that several of these warrior soldiers were traveling through Belgium! I was excited to go see what I could see. Karen and Brady agreed to come with us. So the 4 of us headed 90 minutes down the road to Maaseik, Belgium. I really wish I knew why this tiny rural town was the chosen site for the exhibit. It was a tiny town square in the middle of acres of farmland.

We rolled up with our strollers and this is what we saw:

The narrow street in the middle of nowhere was overflowing with senior citizens waiting to get in! As Karen noted, we brought down the median age of the group by 50 years. We knitted ourselves and our strollers through the masses and made it in to see the soldiers. We got plenty of, "Are you crazy? What are you doing here with toddlers?!?" looks, but we persevered and got our glimpses. There were 14 warriors and herds of animals.

We did have to speed through the exhibit because it was clear as we were packed in like sardines that lingering with loud and active children would not work out. That was ok though, I was still tickled to see the warriors. It was more about what those figures represented than the actual sight. Connor and Brady were sports. They enjoyed the animals and Brady even learned how to "kneel" like a warrior! So adorable.

After we scooted out with our terra cotta toy replicas in hand, we took the kids to a cafe for lunch. We examined the menu before we went in to make sure it was "kid suitable" and tried to translate the Dutch. We thought it was a pizza place (circular items illustrated sure looked like pizza pies), but come to find out when we sat down it was actually a pancake house. Clearly our Dutch needs some help! But we had a "pizza pancake" and that fit the bill.


Even if it made for a long trip for only 20 minutes of viewing, it was a memorable day for me. And I hope also memorable for the kids. Maybe all this carting around will help make learning come even more alive. At least until we make it to China for real one day!

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Carnival Continues - in Binche!

Did you think that was it? One Carnival parade and we were through? You know me better than that! On (Fat) Tuesday we traveled with Karen and Brady and Karen's parents (visiting from the States) to the old fortified hill town of Binche, Belgium. It is located near the eastern part of Belgium, nestled in the French section of the country. Complete opposite of Aalst which was the Dutch celebration. Gotta love a bilingual country!
The origins of Binche's Carnival have been traced back to the 14C and the celebration is recognized on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. So after resting Monday we packed up and went.
We arrived in Binche midmorning and we were immediately enveloped with the Carnival spirit. The small town was packed with people. It was a bit intimidating for two Moms with strollers, but I was astounded by how kind and jovial the entire day stayed. The crowds engulfed us, but also gave us pockets of space for maneuvering and enjoying the atmosphere.

Traditions in Binche include wearing this bright and cheery yellow baby's breath type flower. And most prominent is the tradition of the "Gilles" dancing in the streets. In the morning they dance and clog around in wooden shoes in a mammoth tight-knit circle on the town square with their arms around each other. Karen and family watched Connor and encouraged me to squish closer for a picture. I wasn't getting anywhere and was just "moshing" with the crowd. But then I saw someone break under the Gilles and into the center of the circle. It seemed ok and a good answer to my crowding problem so I did the same. Inside the circle was a collection of drummers pounding out the beat to the "rhythm."

It was roomy and a great opportunity for photos and a better look at the mysterious Gille costume. I snapped my shots and then scooted back out to be with our group, yet exhilarated by the newness and boisterousness of it all.
I urged Karen and family to do the same while I watched the strollers. But when they returned from the circle they told me that made it under the Gilles, but then they were pushed back under and tssk-d out from the middle. Oops. So you aren't really supposed to be in the center without being an official drummer. Oh well. I plead ignorant American Expat.

We wandered around the town and let the kids play with the ever present confetti. They loved throwing it and shrieking at it floating atop one another. Confetti is a hit.
After lunch Karen and family left to return to Brussels, but Connor and I stayed for the afternoon parade. I just hadn't had my fill of the Gilles! It was a long, chilly wait for the parade to start, but my rock star baby slept in her Bob stroller and awoke just in time. Thank you sweet Connor! While I was waiting, I had so much fun people watching. More costumes! More confetti! And more darling children - everywhere. So I had to take pictures.
The parade was much different than the one in Aalst. It consisted of groups or "cliques" of Gilles. Starting with the youngest, wee little ones and gradually growing to the adult men Gilles. Each group had a unique costume identifying them. In between each group there was always a band entourage belonging to that group singing out a melody on their instruments. And then there were also accompanying parents and friends wearing regular street clothes and all carrying backpacks and duffel bags full of blood oranges interspersed with the Gille group. What is up with the oranges?
The tradition is that the Gilles throw the blood oranges to the crowd along the parade route. What is the point? That is the point. Fortunately we were on the front row so many were kind enough to gently hand over the fruit rather than pegging us with it. But in many cases they threw with a lot of force. All of the town windows were well defended with chicken wire against the oncoming oranges. Guess they learned their lesson in past years!

Kirk and August drove up to Binche and met us after work. Unfortunately they didn't get to see it all, but they didn't miss the most famous Gilles dressed in their 8 foot costumes with big feathery hats! And they caught a few blood oranges.Connor did seem to really get a kick out of the day. She experienced it and felt it. I pray that all of these opportunities are positively absorbed into her as her little brain takes it all in.

We ended the day back in our cozy apartment and made pancakes for dinner. That is the traditional "Shrove Tuesday" meal and it was a comfort-laden way to end an exhausting Mardi Gras!

Click here for Binche Carnival Celebration (full album)

Happy CARNIVAL from Aalst

I have never, ever celebrated Mardi Gras/Fat Tuesday/Carnival before. And we are Presbyterians so while we do Easter up right, we seem to be more passive with Lent and the build up to Lent as a denomination. At least in my assessment. Not sure why that is. I have yet to give something up for Lent in my lifetime. So, when I heard about the countless Carnival celebrations leading up to Mardi Gras in Europe as a whole and in Belgium specifically, imagine my surprise. We are having a ball marking all of the other new holidays here, so why not join in the Carnival festivities? So on Sunday we traveled to Aalst, Belgium with our friends Dallas and Thomas Stromberg. Aalst is in the Dutch-speaking part of Belgium and about 45 minutes from Brussels. We arrived in the third hour of a 5 hour long Carnival Parade. Yes, you read that right. A 5 hour parade. This parade was complete with huge floats, marching bands and lots of clowns. And I am not sure why it had to be this way - but the parade had an element of European humor that included a lot of off-color components. The participants in the parade were all men dressed as women in drag or scantily clad. I think it is a tradition centuries old. So it has been and will continue to be!And most of the floats had a clear political caricature to them. Made me wish I knew more about Belgian and European politicians so I could better understand the satire. Although I did and could certainly appreciate those making fun of Belgian bureaucracy and the infamous red tape of the government. We have definitely experienced that! Covering every inch of the streets of the town was confetti. Imagine how much fun never ending confetti is for an almost-two-year-old! How can bits of paper be so wonderful? We now have tag-a-long confetti all over our house and in every crevice of our car as a reminder of and a souvenir from the Aalst Carnival confetti fun! Also, apparently we didn't get the memo but everyone dresses up in costume for the occasion. Those in the parade as well as those on the street. They dress up in whatever. Young and old. It is a fun twist of Halloween and New Years smushed together for Carnival.
Thomas and Dallas are both accomplished and amazing photographers (by hobby not by trade) so it was an extra special bonus to have them along. They took gorgeous photos of Connor. They weren't just fabulous photographers, but they also seemed to clearly enjoy time with her and relish in all of Connor's toddler moments. Thank goodness for friends like that. They took these 3 photos below.
We stayed for a couple hours of the parade and then were pooped. We came, we saw, we laughed, we ate (traditional beignets), and we had a lot of fun together. The party clearly continued into the wee hours of the night despite our departure!

Click here for Aalst Carnival Parade on Sunday (Full Album)