Saturday, July 4, 2009

Father's Day in Sicily! - Part Two

We had to bid our farewell to the Aeolian Islands as there was so much left to discover on Sicily and so little time. So we ferried back to the mainland and I was amused by the truck that greeted our boat filled with fruits and veggies. I wonder if it is fresher, cleaner or safer to do this? Somehow it seemed strange and the opposite....but the colors were magnificent.We continued to circle the island in our driving tour and made it to Syracuse (pronounced and sometimes spelled Siracusa). This pretty town on the water is bursting with Greek ruins. And you know us, if there is a Greek theatre in the vicinity - we are there! We had a little trouble getting oriented as the town center and the Greek theatre are in opposite directions. We ended up dripping in the heat and at a grocery store just trying to grab anything for lunch since we were so turned around. Nothing like a banana, some bread and cheese, and a bag of cherries to revive. We were back on course soon. We reached the theatre and it was quite the spot with views out to the green, green water and a much-appreciated ocean breeze. We pushed Connor up to the top and took it all in. There were cool, shaded caves along the back of the complex where Connor was sure bears must live, because "bears live in caves!"Connor had us in stitches when she grabbed the guidebook and started pointing at the pages spontaneously saying we should go "here and here and here and here" --- can you tell she is OUR daughter?!? Guess she got the travel genes too!At the Greek theatre the pink flowers that graced all of Sicily were especially gorgeous. Connor had fun singing and dancing in the sunshine underneath them.
We found another enormous cave under the theatre. It was shaped like the ear of an elf and had bats in it, but still no bears! Another toddler hit! Echos are tons of fun in caves!
Nearby was a Roman theatre too. It was overgrown, but still a jewel.
Having had our fill of ruins we walked back to the main town. Syracuse ended up being a classic, quaint Italian town like in your imagination. With a charming church, an immaculate town square gleaming in the sun, art abounding and right on the dazzling emerald sea. The Greek ruins may have originally drawn us to the town, but the main historic center - which is an island - was the cherry on top.
This sculpture resided in Washington DC awhile. I think I remember seeing it there - called "The Awakening." Now it is in Syracuse, Sicily. Go figure!
We stayed the next 2 nights in Taormina, Sicily. It is a hilltop town that could not be more appealing. Kirk announced at the end of our stay that Taormina is his hands-down favorite Italian town. Wow, move over Rome, Florence, and Lake Como! While I am not sure I am ready to crown it at the top of my list, it is certainly near the top!
We stayed at Villa Schuler. The views were stunning and we both agreed that if we ever knew anyone wanting to honeymoon in Europe, this would be a great spot! Our room was big and private and the included breakfast was tummy-pleasing (with a strawberry or coffee granite and eggs made to order - now that is the way to start a morning!)This is the view from the breakfast balcony. That is Mount Etna in the distance. Pretty incredible! Luckily no eruptions, but it was cool to see all the mini craters leading up to the top. We even caught a rainbow over it one day. You can hike up Mount Etna, but we opted to be more low key with a beach day instead.As we were driving into Taormina I saw a shiny bride marching down the main street with her father, goin' to the chapel. She had her long veil draped over her arms and was waving to the tourists. Later as we wandered the town we found the chapel where they were tying the knot. The romantic in me took over and I got completely wrapped up in the festivity. I don't think I quite counted as a "wedding crasher" but I was taken with the love and good will from not just the guests, but the passersby too. For Father's Day we took the funicular down to the beach for a low key day celebrating Kirk! We happened upon a beach a little off the beaten path called Isola Bella. With an umbrella and lounge chairs nestled into a cozy cove we swam and sunned and ate watermelon (yum!)With so many rocks we did miss the North Carolina soft sand beaches. Connor was the only one who had the proper footwear to take the hard rocky beach without wincing.
Kirk's Father's Day gift was this wooden paddle and ball set. I knew it would delight Connor and in turn would delight Kirk, which is what the day is all about, right? Connor loved playing with the ball. But it proved a difficult feat to hit the ball and stay balanced with all the rocks at our feet.
Our little diva, enjoying the Italian sun!I adore this Father's Day shot. Makes me so happy as a mom and as a wife to see my husband father our child with such loyalty, love and patience.After naps and showers we were out and about in Taormina. We walked from one end to the other. We tried to get into the Greek theatre there, but we were 5 minutes too late. Bummer. It was ok though. There was so much else to see and experience.Throughout Sicily we were both a little disappointed with the pizza. The pasta was pretty good, but the caprese salad was the best! I think I ate caprese salad everyday (along with my daily sugary granite!) It is easy to make caprese yourself, but it just is so much better when served.And the gelato did not disappoint....At Villa Schuler there was a large pond filled with turtles and fish. They had no idea what they had coming for them once Connor discovered them. She did not want to leave her beloved "turtles and fish." The turtles were all happily sunning themselves on the rocks when we arrived but promptly took cover when Connor started doting over them. She fed them enough bread and crackers to last through the entire summer. We hope we didn't make their bellies explode with the feast!
After 2 charmed days and nights we had to leave Taormina. We tore ourselves away anxious to see our next sights, but sad to leave such a wonderful spot. We drove southwest to Agrigento and to the "Valley of the Temples." We spotted the ancient monuments (that are actually on a high ridge, not a valley) from quite some distance and they proved even more spectacular up close. The hilltop is the place of seven ancient Greek temples attributed to gods and goddesses. It was a breezy place due to the nearby ocean winds, making for a comfortable day. I always think of beating sun when I think of ancient ruins, but these were quite the opposite!
We had a few more adventures in Sicily, but since this post is already a novel....more to come. Click here for full album photos of our Sicily part two shots.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Under the Sicilian Sun - Part One

Our next adventure was a big one in my mind. SICILY! The only thing I knew about Sicily before our trip was that sit-com Golden Girl Sofia (Dorothy's mom, Estelle Getty) was from there - I am a child of the 80s, what can I say? But for some reason Sicily was on my radar from our first weeks travel planning and we found another budget flight...so you know the drill. We were off to discover and explore! Sicily ended up being one of my very favorite places in Europe thus far!

I have had a few folks ask where Sicily is in Italy. It is to the Southwest of Italy. If you think of Italy as a boot, it is "kicking" the island of Sicily. The mafia is supposedly synonymous with Sicily, but luckily they stayed away from us!We arrived on an early morning flight and our first stop was Monreale. We were famished and hot when we got there so we splurged on some frozen lemon drinks, which they call granites in Sicily. I think I ended up slurping a granite every single day! They were heavenly!

We hiked up to see the famous Romanesque cathedral with its dazzling mosaics. I was immediately struck by the golden vision of Old Testament tales on the walls of the nave and aisles. God creating the Earth and Heavens is the subject of the first panel and moving clockwise around the four sides, the history of the Israelites is depicted in gold, blue and red, while the aisles, choir and transepts tell the story of Christ, his miracles, betrayal and crucifixion. It was a sight to behold! We pointed out the story of Noah, which held Connor's attention for a moment. But then she was back to crawling all over the benches and wiggling. I sometimes wonder if she will ever sit still!We drove down the road into the capital city of Palermo. Whoa - hold your horsies! I felt like someone had cut us to the quick as soon as we got into the city. We are pretty adept European drivers and we are used to no driving rules and narrow streets. But nothing could have prepared us for Palermo. It was a 'balls out' grueling city without a parking space to be had and pedestrians who don't seem to mind risking their lives paired with drivers who have the same sentiment. We never did find a spot so we took turns waiting in the car while the other scooted around with the camera. It is ok to skip Palermo if you go. Sicily is so gorgeous and while the city has character and color - Kirk was especially ready to drive on outta there.Even the poor horses in Palermo seemed submissive. Goodness knows why they make them wear hats! To shield from the sunburn factor?!?! We did find an open air market - something Palermo is known for - and we had a fun time absorbing all the crazy mish mash of things offered...there were tiny snails....
produce next to binoculars and other electronics...plump Sicilian raisins.....and best of all for our grumbling bellies...the very best parma ham and cheese sandwiches I have ever eaten made to order!
We beelined it out of Palermo - grateful to have our car and ourselves in tact after the harrowing drive - and to the port town of Milazzo where we caught a ferry to the Aeolian Island of Lipari. It was fun, fun, fun to go to an island. Felt kinda like a tropical honeymoon - or as much like a honeymoon as it could with a toddler tagging along! We stayed at Hotel-Residence Baia Portinenti which was a terrific choice with great service and pretty large rooms. I loved all the artwork hanging throughout the hotel. Here is one in our room...I was definitely in need of a beach day so we packed our sunscreen and walked thru town to the port. We took a day trip on a boat to the island of Vulcano.
Connor was ready for the boat breeze! I love these photos.
On the way to Vulcano we went to see some of the iconic caves of the Aeolian Islands. The water was neon aqua and too enticing for Kirk not to jump right in!
We dipped Connor's toes in too. Don't worry, we were very careful! And we had a good hold of her.As we approached Vulcano the enormous steaming crater and sulphur smell was hard to miss. The Aeolian Islands are all volcanic. You can hike up to the crater, but we opted for renting chairs and umbrella and playing in the waves on the black sand beach instead!It was a grand day. Connor had a blast and could not get enough of the water. She was also a big people-watcher! It is odd because this was the first place we had been where I was certain we were the only Americans there. Or quite possibly the only native English-speakers period. I guess Sicily and the Aeolian Islands are a popular spot for Italians to vacation. I mean even the hotelier and our boat guide barely spoke more than a few key words. But we managed.

We ate a peaceful lunch on the beach at a local hut and had to keep pinching ourselves that we were actually there!

We returned to Lipari for a long nap after all the fun in the sun. And then explored the Lipari village of the scenic island that evening. Had we more time I would have caught the bus to the gleaming white sand beach one town over we saw in postcards. I love checking out the postcard stands for hints on area highlights. You never go wrong that way!

We returned to the quaint marina for a light dinner. It was a great day all around under the Sicilian sun!

Babies, Babies Everywhere

We are in that stage in life. Where it seems everyone we know is having babies. It is so exciting to see these families grow! It does change everything but it is a change that I think focuses life and gratitude and gives purpose to all we do. Best of luck to these new parents (and parents-to-be) with their bundles of joy! All babies born in the past 3 months or in utero!

Mike and Leah - Baby Boy Mason!
Eric and Tracy - Baby Boy Griffin!
Rick and Christy - Baby Girl #2 Hagen!
Katie and Spencer - Baby Boy #2 due this November!
Elizabeth and John - Baby Boy #2 due later this year!
Emily and Pat - Baby Boy Patrick!
Melanie and Nevin - Baby Girl Addison!
Judy and Jorge - Baby Boy Javier!
Reshunda and Janon - Baby Boy #2 due in a few months!
Grant and Kathleen - Baby Boy Triplets due at the end of the year!
Stephanie and David - Baby Boy due in the Fall!
Brooke and Chad - Baby Girl Avary!
Kevin and Abbey - Baby Boy Tyler!
Becca and Matt - Baby Boy due in the Fall!
Julia and Matt - Baby Girl due any day now!
Deya and Gus - Baby due around Turkey Day! (gender a surprise!)
Dana and Ryan - Baby due this year!
Anna and John - Baby Boy Jack!
Music Ladies: Nikki - Baby Boy Jack; Harriet - Baby due August; Ciara - Baby Boy due July

And to all the pregnancies we don't yet know about or overlooked. CONGRATS! Good luck on getting some sleep!

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Watching My Daughter Learn

I think the best thing about living in Europe is seeing it through Connor's eyes.... I can't help but wonder what she is thinking and I feel like I can literally see the wheels in her precious head turning and learning. She has new words, sentences and sayings everyday and the way she refers to things from the past in a relevant way in the present surprises me.
And it isn't just the ancient Greek wonders that make her think. It can be the simplest stuff. Connor loves the farm animals on the side of the road, her baby dolls in their stroller, and people on the street. Oh to be two years old with the world at your feet!!!