Under the Big Top in the Bull Fighting Ring - Madrid!

This past weekend the Willinghams packed up and flew to Madrid, Spain! Funny Madrid has not been at the top of my “must visit” lists but I was pleasantly surprised at all the city had to offer. And with plane tickets at 5 euros apiece, how could we not?

We flew the budget airline Ryan Air for the first time. They clearly offer rock bottom prices, but the catch is they charge you for everything else – snacks, drinks, there are ads and lottery cards sold en route, they even charge if you want to check one bag (although I guess that is par for the course now). So if you are able to dodge all the marketing gimmicks, then it is a steal. You can only bring one 10 kilo bag as carry on. We took it as a challenge to pack minimally and avoid all extra costs. Note to all mothers who are attempting this magic trick though…don’t skimp on the diapers. We realized halfway through the trip I had packed too few diapers for Connor. So we had an adventure trying to find a place on a Sunday that was open and sold diapers (a hard thing to do in Europe where most places are closed on Sundays). We ended up having to pay 29 euros (nearly $45) for a large package of additional diapers (more than the cost of our plane tickets!) Then we had to cram the extra European-make, super expensive diapers from the gigantic package in our already tight bags to get back home. Oh well. Lesson learned!

In Madrid we stayed at Hotel Preciados near the Puerta del Sol, right in the center of town. I highly recommend it and again we found hotel negotiations reign supreme during the colder weather. We had a great time touring around Madrid as a family. Highlights included a self-directed walking tour in the early morning, eating pastries at Salon La Mallorquina, and playing with Connor on all the “moo cows” all over the city. My favorite building/place was the Plaza Mayor. It was, as our guidebook said, like a “grand palace turned inside out.” A deep burgundy colored square with unique painting, lots of cobblestones, and a “BIG neigh neigh” statue (as Connor called it) in the center. Nearby was this intriguing street with little cavelike bars all over. The caves were long and narrow. I could only imagine how much fun they were during the evening hours though – but when traveling with a little one with a 7 PM bedtime, late night partying at bars is off the table.

Some other interesting tidbits about Madrid:
--- All of the street signs in Madrid display both the written name as well as an illustration. This traditional practice is supposed to enable the illiterate to understand the signs.
--- Churros for breakfast in Madrid is considered a “must do.” We went to Chocolaterias Valor to indulge in their churros dipped in steaming chocolate. Yummy! Connor of course had all the waitresses charmed - they spontaneously brought her extra churros.
--- The public transport system is awesome in Madrid. We hopped on and off all over (including coming from the airport). We were planning to take a chartered van upon arrival, but I am so glad we opted at the last minute for the bus/metro combination. It makes me feel alive and a part of it all to conquer well thought metro networks.
--- At night all of the buildings light up with these dramatic, individual per window spotlights - lit from below each sill. It is stunning and adds spirit and flavor to an already spicy city. Makes me want to grab a fan and some ruffles and begin dancing!

I had no idea how much art was in Madrid. We did go to the famous Prado art museum near the end of the day. The Prado is free on Saturdays in the evenings. But Connor was exhausted and tired and the hassle through security was a last straw for our girl after a busy day of going everywhere, so we were only able to stay ~30 minutes or so. But I got to glimpse the Prado's art somewhat - even if in a blur. We can say we tried!

By far my very favorite was the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. This place is less intimidating than the Prado with a warm and welcoming design and layout. And the Impressionist paintings were incredible. How is it that Impressionism can put you at such ease and awe when other genres of art can be so jarring and too bold? I discovered two artists who were new and inspiring to me: Jon S. Legere and Erich Heckel. Not sure either of them are that famous, but their work seemed to speak to me – and usually I am not one to engage very much in galleries, even though I do love art. But here I was taken with the brush strokes and the evolution of art styles so elegantly displayed. Even with a wiggly toddler in tow I was able to relax and absorb the stories of the art encircling us. Connor and Kirk were so cute because while I soaked in the masterpieces they strolled through trying to find all the "Neigh Neighs, Moo Cows, and Baby Jesus's" in the paintings. It was funny because all of the museum guards in every room couldn't help but smile at them on their treasure hunt within the art.

But lest you think poor Connor spent the entire time cooped up in her stroller in art museums, there were plenty of kid-friendly activities in Madrid. We found playgrounds all over. This one was across from the Thyssen museum and we went during prime “siesta” time. Connor danced in the sunlight and delighted in the swings, slides, and sand.

Another fun activity – we strolled all over Retiro Park. The grounds were enormous with European sculptures and meticulous decoration throughout. I was wow'd for a public park. I could tell it was a popular siesta spot for many Spaniards. We settled in front of this great lake with charming rowboats and again a “BIG neigh neigh” statue (Connor loves those). There was someone playing “Oh when the saints go marching in” on saxophone in the background which was the cherry on top. Connor ran around with other children and had a ball watching the boats and the ducks (of course).

Finally, we walked to the Plaza de Toros – Spain’s top spot for bull fights. We weren’t going to attend a fight, but just to take in the memorable stadium. Well, when we arrived this is what we saw….

The “Circo Americano” was in town!!! Connor has never been to the circus so how could we say no? We will have this incredible memory to always tell her about her very first circus under the big top within Madrid’s bull fighting ring. I thought Connor was going to melt she was so happy. We went into the tent and found our seats and Connor promptly started playing with many of the other Spanish children around. She would give “Green Muh Muh” to them and then ask for it back – back and forth a million times. They of course “speak” different languages, but the connectiveness of the children was heartwarming. And what a strange experience the circus was. There were only 2 rings, but one was an ice skating rink – so this circus was more of a icecapades plus traditional circus all in one. There were trapeze artists, clowns, tight rope walkers and the very best part were the animals: camels, elephants, and ponies!!! When the animals came out Connor sat still on our laps and just oooh’d and aaah’d and clapped without taking her eyes for a second off the show. I don’t think I even saw very much of the circus, because watching Connor watch the circus was the biggest treat of all. There was a master of ceremonies (is that what they call him in the circus?) who narrated the show, of course all in Spanish. It was all over the top! And I am so glad we made that memory together! We only stayed for the first half – and when we saw them putting up a makeshift “cage wall” for the tigers and lion tamers we were glad we were on our way out at intermission. But man, if you ever come across a circus in a bull fighting ring, don’t hesitate – just go!

We also took a day trip to Toledo, Spain. This town is the namesake of the expression “Holy Toledo” mostly because it has what is considered the best cathedral in Spain and was a former capital of the country. It was the type of town where you are meant to get lost – that is part of the fun. We wandered the streets and I was taken with the glass window box balconies everywhere. I tried to think what I would do in it if I had one. People watch? Play cards? Eat meals? With all the street looking in? Hmmm. Maybe not too practical, but they sure were pretty. Toledo is also famous for marzipan so we of course had to indulge! We enjoyed the Santa Cruz museum – and I couldn’t help but to photograph the schoolchildren there on a Sunday playing some version of Red Rover right in the front yard of this grand museum.

We couldn’t resist bringing home a souvenir of a fun flamenco dress for Connor with a fan and doll. Usually we don’t fall prey to the tourist scams, but the fringe sealed the deal. We got the dress for a mere $10 from a street vendor. Olay!

For those of you who don't have Madrid on your bucket list, think again. It is a city alive with fun and festivity, art and culture, high energy combined with relaxation. And with all that in one weekend, who knows what we would do with even longer there? Thanks Ryan Air for the cheap airfare!

Click here for Madrid and Toledo (full album)

Proud to be American

Happy Inauguration Day! Don't you just love how it has become a happy holiday in the midst of so much that is heavy in the world today? Mom tells me it was even a surprise snow day in Raleigh - so what a perfect bonus for everyone to witness today tucked in at home, together and snowbound with family.

It was a VERY busy day in Brussels. Thank goodness for the time change so it was actually 5:30 PM our time when Obama took office. We snuggled in to our apartment as it started to pour rain outside. Kirk was home early and we had our first houseguest, Courtney Leavitt, my sister from New Jersey, visiting us. We cooked dinner and played in our living room amidst this oh-so-historic event on TV. How can you not be moved by what took place?

Being in Europe and seeing the "outside-looking-in perspective" of America, I am delighted for the USA with Obama's presidency. Admittedly I have not always been a diehard Obama supporter, so the power of his "change" is definitely at work in me. And I am a firm believer in providing unwavering support to our leaders who choose to serve us with their lives and passion - so that is what we are doing - with loving and prayerful hearts for President Obama's wisdom, strength and courage. One of my favorite moments today was the unprecedented sendoff of the Obamas with the Bushs. As the commentator said it was "laced with symbolism" - but when it comes down to it, it was just the right, touching, kind, unifying thing to do. I have read story after story of these new little touches of inclusion already so much a part of this presidency, which must add up to the swell of something extraordinary.

Obama's hope and optimism are inspiring to the entire world. I realize now that I live in Europe how much we take for granted in the USA and indeed how engaged and poised the entire world is on our events. We have so many freedoms and opportunities unimaginable to most. I hope and pray that as an individual and as a part of larger groups I can fulfill the challenge to work hard, to consistently give to others, and to cling to the values to accomplish successful change. With Obama's presidency I am met in political conversations with a twinkle in the eye by Europeans, not a snide remark. That must mean great unity on our horizon.

I felt it was truly important to celebrate this milestone with Connor. Something about MLK's "I Have a Dream" that children will one day play together - means that need to cling closer to the future and the promise of what is to come. I know Connor will not remember this day, but I hope through pictures we will be able to talk about how this "audacity of hope" translated to success and what that means to us all. Tomorrow we are going to write a letter to President Obama and send it to the White House to close out our Inauguration Fun. Did you know you could do that? Yep, just address it to Pennsylvania Ave. But for today we had fun with a table poster we made and coloring pages of Obama....

Just because sometimes reading words sinks in more for me than hearing them - my favorite part of Obama's speech is below. Enjoy! Happy Inauguration - go embrace freedom!

My Favorite Excerpt from President Barack Obama's Inaugural Address (January 20, 2009) - with the photos we took from our TV posted on the right side!

"For as much as government can do and must do, it is ultimately the faith and determination of the American people upon which this nation relies. It is the kindness to take in a stranger when the levees break, the selflessness of workers who would rather cut their hours than see a friend lose their job which sees us through our darkest hours. It is the firefighter's courage to storm a stairway filled with smoke, but also a parent's willingness to nurture a child, that finally decides our fate. Our challenges may be new. The instruments with which we meet them may be new. But those values upon which our success depends - hard work and honesty, courage and fair play, tolerance and curiosity, loyalty and patriotism - these things are old. These things are true. They have been the quiet force of progress throughout our history. What is demanded then is a return to these truths. What is required of us now is a new era of responsibility - a recognition, on the part of every American, that we have duties to ourselves, our nation, and the world, duties that we do not grudgingly accept but rather seize gladly, firm in the knowledge that there is nothing so satisfying to the spirit, so defining of our character, than giving our all to a difficult task. This is the price and the promise of citizenship.
This is the source of our confidence - the knowledge that God calls on us to shape an uncertain destiny."

Please, Thank You, and AMEN!

I never, ever want to forget this about Connor. For several months now she has mastered the words “please” and “thank you.” She says “please” emphatically and always in conjunction with the sign language sign for “please” of putting both palms on her chest . She is also good at the “thank you” part, but it comes out sounding much more like “day, day” than “thank you.” Nevertheless she says them both in context and consistently. It makes us laugh and smile every time!

And recently Connor has really taken to the “Amen” ritual closing blessings and prayers. For a while it was just at night after the “now I lay me down to sleep.” She would nod and sing A-MEN and then bend in to give both Kirk and me Eskimo kisses and hugs. This made putting her down and leaving her to sleep very difficult.

But now to add to the “Amen” cuteness, when Connor notices me preparing food for any meal – it doesn’t matter whether it is breakfast, lunch or dinner - she immediately scampers to her booster chair, gets in and holds both arms out (as if to beckon us to hold hands) and chants, “A-MEN, A-MEN, A-MEN!” Sometimes it is a good 20 minutes before dinner is even ready. I have never seen a child so excited to say “Amen” in my life. There are occasions that I sit down for breakfast and we begin eating without the blessing. Connor just looks at me and says, AMEN, to remind me!

TGIF!

I love Fridays! I just wanted you to know a wonderful follow up and answered prayer to my previous post. Friday is now my favorite day here in Brussels. We walk to music class – a brisk 45 minute walk - first thing in the morning. It is a good “get up and go” activity first thing in the day. I love all the sites we routinely pass on the way to class:

--- the cartoons painted on the sides of buildings (Brussels is known for comics)
--- the royal palace (where they are usually changing the guard)
--- the art museum with the bell tower ringing different songs
--- our favorite park, Parc du Bruxelles, with mammoth gates and sculptures
--- the random Asian woman doing taekwondo in the middle of an intersection
--- abandoned bread delivery awaiting pickup outside the gates of fancy hotel
--- the hustle & bustle of walking up Ixelles boulevard, a major shopping route

Connor expectantly starts singing her favorite French song from class “Bateau, sur l’eau” as soon as we start heading in the familiar direction. By the time we make it to class she is ready to jump and dance out of her skin; she is so excited. It is all I can do to get her coat off before she dashes into the room and onto a cushion, ready to SING and make music! Everyone chuckles at the magnitude of Connor’s glee. It is a great time to cuddle and connect with my little wiggle worm! And then this week, as if in answer to my need for friendship – I not only had coffee with my music mom friends after class, but I also met Emily – a new friend and fellow expat from Georgia. Small world! Emily has been here 4 years and is already a terrific resource. What a comfort to hear another “y’all” spoken in Brussels!

Things are also starting to click with my English-speaking playgroup. I have attended 4 of them now. I tried to go to 2 others and just couldn’t find the right location (each group takes place in one of the mothers’ homes – so it rotates around). Getting all bundled up in the cold and then failing to find a selected destination once you are en route is so frustrating, but honestly the street signs are in both French and Dutch and they follow no logical grid or plan. So sometimes I just have to throw in the towel and admit directional defeat! But I am persevering and this last time I actually made it to the right address AND remembered several of the other moms’ and babies’ names. We held somewhat coherent conversations despite the children running around. And Connor started to actually play WITH some of the other kids. Usually at this age they play more in parallel than together (except to take each other’s toys).
So things are looking up!

Above - a street sign. I mean really. Who really names a street Onafhankelijkheidstraat?!?! I knew I found the right spot for playgroup when I saw the congregating strollers!

Missing You!

Can I tell you something? I am a tad lonely. Very happy, but missing you!
Kirk's busy season started which means long workdays with uncertainty about exactly how long his team is working. But unlike in the States he doesn't have to work many weekends, yeah! This uncertainty is compounded because he has no idea of his expectations since everyone speaks informally in French or Dutch - and it would seem pretty bold to everyday be asking, "What time do you think we are leaving tonight?" He tells me he just works until he sees others starting to shut down their computers. Last night that was until nearly 11 PM. This uncertainty must be just as difficult for Kirk as it is for me!

I am thankful for Connor's companionship. We have a lot of fun together and I am always aware of this incredible blessing of time to enjoy all the toddler milestones - every new word, watching her imagination take hold, and rediscovering with glee things I take for granted. It is however an every moment of everyday kind of relationship. I am amazed just how mentally and physically exhausting motherhood can be while still not feeling like much is getting done.

I know I am just on the cusp of so much with putting down roots and making friends in Brussels. I remain very hopeful, optimistic, and confident in the future. I have been reading some fellow "Georgia to Brussels" expat blogs lately and I am in awe of how together these women are and how they were able to get with a routine and goals here. I take it as great inspiration to do the same. I mean how much can one complain when the world is at my feet and every weekend brings a new travel adventure?!? I think I am still just adjusting to a slower pace of life (yet faster pace with Connor) and a culture that can often be intimidating if not rude - all in the midst of a grey, wet, cold winter.

It is not that we are total homebodies though. No. Connor and I have been on a broad array of outings - I make it a point to leave the house everyday. Sometimes if it is raining it means we go to the McDonalds down the street to play on their indoor playground. Connor has really taken to "Ronald."









In this photo (below) I want you to gape at something that is a common site in Brussels. You may only notice Ronald but look more closely and you will see a huddle of folks in the doorway in the freezing cold taking a smoke break. Everyone here seems to smoke - young and old - even when it is negative 7 degrees!

I am trying to be a tourist in my own hometown, and learn as much as I can about Brussels. Yesterday we went for a tour of City Hall in the Grand Place. I tried to go the day before as was per the published schedule, but when I arrived they said the daily English tour would not go as planned on Tuesday because the staff were going "out for a drink" - oh, okay. We returned on Wednesday with Connor strapped in her stroller joyfully singing. As I bought my ticket the woman was very hesitant about Connor going on the tour. She asked very directly "Is your baby going to cry?" Ummm - I don't know. I promised her if Connor did become fussy I would of course leave. Then she wanted to be sure I wasn't planning on bringing the stroller on the tour. Ummm - I was. If I don't Connor will be running all over kingdom come. The lady then makes a big scene and ordeal to get special permission for me to bring the stroller on tour. Geez.

I tried not to act like the spectacle I was becoming so I just joined the awaiting tour group, assuming they would speak their French and find a way to make this happen. I started rolling Connor's stroller back and forth and bumping noses with her each time she came towards me. Every time Connor would let out these hearty peels of laughter that echoed in the foyer. Her laughter helped my nerves that she would indeed cooperate with the tour. She managed to charm the security guard and all the waiting tourists. It was comforting to feel all their smiles at Connor. By this time the ticket lady - who was apparently also the tour guide returned with her boss and blessed the stroller going on tour - but only if we stayed on the carpet. I was touched when one of the other tourists came up - a Brit of course, gotta love the Brits - and said he would help me with the stroller if I needed assistance. Eureka! We were in.

So we did manage to go on the 40 minute tour. I was instructed to stay 1-2 rooms ahead of the group at all times (I guess because Connor was happily cooing off and on). I felt a little like an outcast, and didn't hear much of the presentation. But it was one of those tours where they describe every single painting - so I wasn't too sad. I had fun with Connor and I am happy to report that she was an absolute ANGEL the entire time. By the end, the hesitant guide lady had totally warmed up and she was announcing us to her fellow coworkers in City Hall as we passed. I heard her say "C'est la premiere fois pour une bebe" (This is the first time for a baby). I was a proud mama!

So you see, in between reading Madeline and Goodnight Moon to Connor a hundred times a day, and trying to find our place in the new city - we are busy. Just still a tad lonely. I am so happy Courtney and the Willinghams are both visiting in the next month and my "Hints for Living in Brussels" class begins next week. In the meantime I think I will go paint my toenails bright pink to liven up the dreary weather!

Just for a smile I wanted to end happy. I am intrigued and learning so much everyday. These are a few of the things that make me chuckle over here. 1 - Connor likes to slide down the hall with her ski pants on. 2 - There are delicious fancy chocolates everywhere! 3 - Quite an outdoor presentation of fish at a local cafe! 4 - During my walk to music class there is a bag of bread like this just sitting alone in the cold outside the hotel in the street. Only in Europe would you see this! I just have to wonder how long it sits in the heart of downtown Brussels and if the bread freezes in the freezing temperatures. 5 - On our street there is a patisserie that always has bread loaves in animal shapes. I wonder how long they take to create. They are cute - which is "mignon" in French.

GREEN and BIG Muh-Muh

Connor is like her mom - she is attaching to lovey security items. I won't even begin to tell you how long I rubbed the lining of my special pillow growing up. Connor's security item of choice is a blanket with satin on it. I don't know why or how, but Kirk and Connor started calling her little green lovey "Muh Muh." When I was home for Christmas I searched a lot of stores to try to find additional Muh Muhs, just in case we happened to lose or need to wash the first (always good to have a back up). Well the only thing I could find was a blue "Muh Muh" that is probably 5 times the size of the first. Kirk then taught Connor to call this new blanket BIG (pronounced Beeeeeg) Muh Muh. She loved the new name and squishes up her face to call for "Big Muh Muh" in a very high pitch (not sure why).

OK - so with that background, we have also been practicing our colors lately. Connor's hands down favorite color to say is "Green" - everything is green. Well today we were playing and Connor had the original Muh Muh and spontaneous started calling it "GREEN Muh Muh." So now we have a Green Muh Muh and a BIG Muh Muh. Meet them both!

The other funny thing that just had to be captured was as we were getting dressed. Connor ran into our room with her Davidson bib flipped around like a cape. I just had to laugh. SUPER CONNOR! A Wildcat in the making!

20 months and counting!

Connor "turned" 20 months today. I guess that makes her 1 and 2/3 years old. When Connor was 6 months old I made her a "Half" Birthday Cake - which was met with quite a few chuckles.

Well today I didn't made a 1.66666 Cake for her, but we did Fingerpaint for the very first time ever in honor of the occasion. I felt very brave for tackling fingerpaint mess in our apartment --- just waiting for painted fingers to get all over our walls and furniture. But luckily with 2 consecutive baths and lots of vigilance we were able to contain the goo.

And tonight when I was photographing Connor with her 20 month masterpiece she insisted that Elmo pose with her while in her PJ bottoms while she wore the tops. It was so funny watching her place Elmo in just the right spot for his shot. Wonder where she gets that from?!?!

We also made ice! Ice in the shape of stars (the star ice trays were a weekend purchase from IKEA). They don't have ice over here in Europe - and certainly not ice makers, so that is what makes it so unique and special. Happy 20 months Connor! Your mommy and daddy sure do love you!